Providing Your Koi with High-Quality Pond Water
Pond water
quality is defined by what the water contains and in what amounts:
dissolved oxygen, fish wastes and dead matter, as well as their
associated byproducts (ammonia, nitrites, nitrates). Koi
experts recommend the monitoring of the following water parameters
once a week (or at the minimum, once a month): ammonia level,
nitrite level, nitrate level, and pH. The monitoring
should be more frequent if the pond is newly built, since the pond's
water quality has not yet stabilized. Pond temperature
must also be monitored regularly if temperature extremes are being
experienced by an outside pond.
One rule
that any novice koi hobbyist must know from the start is that water
quality can never be judged by water clarity. Some ponds with
crystal-clear water may be lethal to fish, since it was lethal
enough to prevent algae from growing in it. On the other hand,
green ponds where you never see the fish can be very healthy to its
inhabitants, producing koi that are bigger and more colorful. Given
this, the only way to assess water quality is to test it.
Pond water
quality is tested using, well, water testing kits. Normally,
every parameter requires its own kit, so the pond owner should be
ready to buy 4-5 test kits to be able to test the basic parameters.
Table 1 shows the specifications for some basic water quality
parameters.
Table 1. Water Quality Parameters
Water Parameter |
Ideal
|
Limits |
Nitrate |
below
80 ppm |
200
ppm maximum |
Nitrite |
0 ppm |
3 ppm
maximum |
Hardness |
about
100 ppm |
50 ppm
min./150 ppm max. |
pH |
7.2-7.6 |
6.5
min./8.2 max. |
Excellent pond water quality is achieved
through proper filtration of the pond water.
Filtration is the
process of removing waste products and other harmful compounds from
the water. This can be done mechanically, biologically, or
chemically (not recommended). Good filtration systems combine
mechanical and biological filtration techniques to achieve its goal:
clear and clean water. Water is usually drawn or impelled into
the filter using an adequately-sized pump. The 'dirty' water
undergoes 'cleaning' as it passes through the various stages of the
filter, until it is returned to the pond in purer state.
Mechanical filtration consists of physically
trapping the particulate wastes and debris in the water. Sand,
beads, pads, and brushes are the commonly used materials for
mechanical filtration. Passing the water through these
materials traps whatever suspended materials are in the water, e.g.,
leaves, twigs, fish feces, etc. Mechanical filters become more
effective if set up in two or more stages, with earlier stages
designed to trap larger debris than later stages. Mechanical
filters are often used as the first stage(s) of the filtration
system since they prevent the 'larger' wastes from reaching the
biological filters.
Biological filtration, as the name implies,
employs natural biological processes to convert harmful waste
byproducts into less invasive compounds. Koi excrete ammonia,
which is deadly to koi in large doses. Certain anaerobic
(non-oxygen-breathing) bacteria
convert ammonia into nitrites, which are, unfortunately, also
poisonous to koi. The good thing is, there are 'good' aerobic
(oxygen-breathing) bacteria
that convert nitrites into nitrates, which are no longer deadly to
koi. These 'good' bacteria are also known as nitrifying
bacteria. Nitrifying bacteria occur freely in nature,
and will populate your pond in time. Biological filtration
therefore simply entails providing a good filtration medium (one
with as large a surface area as possible) for these good bacteria to
grow in.

Figure 1. Good filter systems
are a
'must-have' in the koi hobby
Chemical filtration refers to the use of water
clarifiers and algaecides to 'clean' the water. This may be
used as a one-time fix or treatment of the pond only or as an
integral part of the filtration system to maintain certain chemical
properties of the pond water within specifications. Some koi experts
believe that treating ponds with chemicals to clean it is not
advisable. In fact, chemical filtration can be avoided altogether
simply by setting up a good mechanical/biological filter system
complemented by regular water changes.
See:
More
Info on Water Quality
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